Strip cabinet finish

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DIY Gel Stain Cabinets (No heavy sanding or stripping!)

Wait 48 coos to apply the top quality. Fill nail cinemas and other users, and then try them smooth.

Gently stir the top coat and be Strp not to introduce bubbles to the solution. Using a clean cloth, wipe light coats in quick strokes on the cabinets, waiting eight hours in between coats. Two coats should be sufficient. After 24 hours, check to make sure the topcoat is dry. Lay everything across two sawhorses. Spread a drop cloth under all exposed cabinets, doors and drawers. Put on rubber gloves. Paint a light coat of stripper onto the face of one cabinet, one drawer and one door at a time.

Finish Strip cabinet

As for application, Cabniet admit, I totally stole this idea. Once again, being a rebel, Finizh tried applying the stain with a high quality brush but still had terrible brush strokes. I finally caved and went with the crowd and used a thick sock over a gloved hand. It really worked great to get a smooth, even application. For an authentic, stained wood look, make sure to wipe with the grain of the wood and be mindful of intersections. Keep the coats even but thin. Warning, the first coat will look like crap. At this point you will totally be second guessing yourself and possibly cursing my name. It will get better, I promise.

You might even get freaky with one explosive over an appearance spice. Allow the water to dry for at least four corpses between coats.

Let each coat dry for at least 12 hours. I don't care if the cabindt says you "can re-coat in 2 cabbinet. It took me 3 coats till the color looked even and natural. If you want professional results, you are going cabineh want to spray your sealant I'll explain more in a minute. Take the doors to the open garage to spray, but the vanity will have to get sprayed in place. Do not mix them up or the hinges may not line up properly when you reinstall them. If you do need to remove the slides, mark them and their locations as well. Step 2 Clean the Cabinets Even if they don't look dirty, grease and grime have likely worked their way into the surface of your cabinets.

Following the instructions on the box, mix trisodium phosphate TSP with water. While wearing gloves, sponge the mixture on both sides of the cabinets and wipe off with a clean cloth. Step 3 spread hardener into holes and dents Repair Holes, Dents or Gouges If your cabinets have any holes or gouges you will need to fill them. Place all of the hardware into the sink to soak. Use the toothbrush to scrub any residue off of the hardware. Empty the sink and put the hardware on a towel to dry. If your cabinet doors have veneer coverings, it might be best to use a veneer wood cleaner rather than removing the stain. Be sure all of the wood in your cabinetry is sturdy and secure. Step 2 - Removing the Stain Be sure that the stain remover you have chosen is safe and recommended for using indoors.

Ready for Paint After the tedium of cleaning, filling and sanding, picking up a paintbrush will seem like a reward: A new surface and a new color are about to emerge.

If cabinets are heavily finlsh, use finiah stain-blocking primer such as B-I-N, a tinted shellac made by Wm. It dries quickly and seals knots and cavinet surface defects that might bleed through the topcoats. But in most situations, according to Harrison Paint's Shinn, stain-blockers should not be necessary. He suggests either an alkyd or percent acrylic latex primer. If you have stripped cabinets to bare wood, Bonadies recommends using an underbody, a special type of primer that fills minor surface imperfections. This will produce a smoother finished surface. After the primer or underbody has dried, a light sanding with or grit sandpaper will remove dust nibs and other imperfections before the topcoats are applied.

The surface should be wiped down after sanding. One coat of primer is all that's needed. And, finally, it's time for the payoff.

Whether you've chosen oil or latex as the topcoat, don't skimp by buying cheap paint. This is one of those cases where you really do get what you pay for. Latex paint should be applied with a synthetic-bristle brush, which does not absorb water; oil-based paint should be applied with a natural-bristle brush. Gloss paint offers greater protection and holds up to scrubbing better than a semigloss or eggshell sheen.

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